AB&GC French trip spans 2,000-years of history, antiques
By Ralph Finch
There we were, 15 Yanks, cruising on the Seine past the strobe-lit Eiffel Tower, sitting in a 2,000-year-old Roman amphitheater (watching one of our group imitate an emperor) or at a Roman coliseum where gladiators once fought (we fought for breath as we climbed the steep steps), and strolling in the incredibly beautiful palace of Versailles, where Marie Antoinette may have said "let them eat cake" (we had a slice of pizza in the cafe instead). We looked up to the bells of Notre Dame Cathedral, trying to spot Quasimodo, while a modern-day Esmeralda danced below for the tourists' coins.
And there we also were, 15 Yanks in the south of France, touring hundreds and hundreds and hundreds of booths filled with centuries-spanning antiques.
And why weren't you with us on Antique Bottle & Glass Collector magazine's third whirlwind trip from Paris to the Mediterranean Sea, frolicking, drinking wine, touring, talking with old friends as we made new ones?
And there we were, at the end of the trip, again wondering why the heck more collectors don't take advantage of this bargain opportunity to rub elbows with other collectors, to see thousands and thousands of antiques from common to "wow, that should be in a museum," to soak up 2,000-year-old history ... and soak up a little wine, too.
But let's back up a few miles. Or kilometers.
The Yanks, coming from all over the U.S., from both coasts, the South, the Midwest, arrived the last few days in August, with the 15 finally gathering at our Paris hotel Aug. 31.
We had a couple of days for trying new restaurants (four of us ate with our mouths open, so to speak, at the 100-year-old restaurant Brasserie Julien, awash in art nouveau excess), plus sightseeing at old favorite spots: the Louvre, the opera house, the Museum d'Orsay. ...
Saturday morning we zipped over to the Port de Vanves street market, using our AB&GC-supplied subway pass, then back to our hotel. We grabbed our bags and headed across the street to board the bullet train that would take us south, in our first-class compartment, at about 150 mph.
Based primarily in Avignon, where the popes ruled from 1309-1376, we attended the 600-dealer Beziers Antique and Collectors Fair, then the 800-dealer Avignon Antique and Collectors Fair, concluding with the 1,200-dealer Montpellier Antique and Collectors Fair! Phew.
Real golden arches: Only the top two rows of
arches of the 902-foot-long Pont du Gard Roman aqueduct are visible behind,
from left, John Panek, Meryle Rinker, Lili Andino, Susan Finch, Jim Hagenbuch
and Jim Higgs. Meryle climbed to the top of the aqueduct with Lili, adding:
"It is a beautiful view and makes it even harder to fathom how this
massive structure was built 2,000 years ago."
After the shows, we walked the narrow streets of Avignon,
toured the Palace of the Popes, and overlooked the Pont d'Avignon, where
a few of us attempted to sing, in French, the "Bridge of Avignon"
song (our bus driver, David, helped us).
Orange you sorry? Sorry that you weren't with
us at the Orange theater, soaking in the history as little Lili Andino is
doing? She listens to the guide, which offers a one-hour audio guide of
the site's 2,000 years of history.
Then, more touring: the ancient cities of Nimes and Orange, and our annual visit to the Pont du Gard, built shortly before the Christian era to allow the 31-mile-long aqueduct of Nîmes to cross the Gard river. The Roman architects and hydraulic engineers who designed this bridge, which stands 164-feet high and is on three levels - the longest 902 feet - created a technical as well as an artistic masterpiece. (The Pont du Gard is one of France's top five attractions, with 1.4 million visitors a year.)
So, what were you doing all this time that was so important that you couldn't join us? (Make plans to travel with us on our January trip to England, or our return trip to France next August.)
Here is how the individual travelers saw it:
Tom McCandless had hoped to "find some early black glass or a good toy at the French markets," but, toys or no toys, Tom expected to "just have fun and enjoy beautiful Paris and France and nice people," and he did just that.
"I enjoy all of the markets and purchased several things at each:
two black-glass pontiled bottles, two wicker-covered flasks, two toys, three
advertising tins. I would buy many other things if I could throw them in
my car and drive home.
Historic showoffs: At the 2,000-year-old Roman
theater in Orange, do you see the statue at the top? That's the Roman emperor,
Augustus. See the little person standing at the bottom, in the same pose?
That's Chicago's Claudia Panek; she's no Sarah Bernhardt, who played "Phèdre"
here in 1903. Opera is still sung here today.
"One downer - no mouse traps this trip."
I asked Tom to list the toys: "One was a pressed steel red truck with a wrecker boom and hook, ca. 1934. The other toy was a colorful handled wire basket that propelled a 3/4-inch diameter ball into the air to be caught by someone with another such toy. It's called 'Lance Ball,' and has nice graphics on the box.
"The advertising tins had colorful graphics, a black swan, a Fortnum & Mason with city street scene, etc."
The royal tour: At Versailles, one of the greatest
attractions in the world, our group has a taste of the good life, including
Jim and Bonnie Higgs, from left, John and Claudia Panek, Jim and Janice
Hagenbuch, Susan Finch and Tom McCandless. "Those Louis boys really
knew how to live big," commented John. And it would be a great place
to hold the next bottle Expo!
Purchases aside, Tom noted that "Paris was beautiful as always. The woman at the hotel desk works so hard to make everything perfect. The evening boat ride along the Seine is a highlight.
"Although I had visited the coliseum and Pont du Gard before, I can pass hours thinking and studying the engineering and craftsmanship necessary to construct those things in the distant past.
"We traveled with a wonderful group. I didn't know half of them before the trip. But everyone was very considerate of an old guy traveling alone. Lili was charming."
Old guy? Tom arrived home from Paris at 6:30 on a Friday evening, and early the next morning was off to the Lewes, Del. bottle show!
Indeed, "Tom was a super companion on this trip," said Chicago's John Panek. "I have so much admiration for him. This 82-year-old WWII vet had more stamina and energy than many 20-year-olds. His knowledge and stories were impressive and I am happy that I had this opportunity to get to know him better."
And John and wife Claudia loved getting to know Paris better: they enjoyed
the Museum d'Orsay, built into the former (1900-1939) Gare d'Orsay, a train
station designed to blend in with its stylish and noble neighbors, including
the Louvre. It holds mainly French art dating from 1848-1914, including
sculptures, furniture, photography and paintings by Monet, Degas, Cezanne,
Van Gogh and many others.
Head Shot: This was our best shot of the Eiffel
Tower, lamented Pennsylvania's Steve Guion with tongue in cheek, "except
John Panek ruined it. We are trying to get his head deleted from the photo.
Typical tourists, always in the way."
"When Susie suggested that we go to the Musee d'Orsay, instead of the Louvre, I was totally unprepared for the visit. I did not have the faintest idea that we would be viewing so many world-famous masterpieces. The Impressionism and Post-Impressionism exhibits were mind-boggling."
Because he is a postcard dealer, John was on the lookout for U.S. and foreign postcards and covers as well as anything marked "Chicago."
Claudia, said John, "pretty much collects and looks for the same things that I do, but specializes in collecting money at casinos across the U.S." (Claudia has been to more casinos than Carter had little liver pills.)
John admitted that he collects "too many things, including antique bottles, stoneware, patent medicine trade cards, art pottery and creamers, and anything old marked 'Chicago,' especially advertising, ephemera, postcards, mirrors, letterheads, blotters, calendar plates and postal history material."
John enjoyed going to a street postcard show, a few
blocks from the Arc de Triomphe, just off the Champs Elysees, "even
though I only obtained a few postcards."
Triumphant trip: Orange contains two of the
finest Roman monuments in Europe: In addition to the theater, here is the
Arc de Triomphe. From left are: Claudia Panek, Tom McCandless, John Panek
and Susan Finch. Built during the first century as a tribute to Augusta,
this arch is a masterpiece of architecture and sculpture, although much
smaller than its Paris counterpart.
An awed John added: "Paris was just as beautiful, scenic, romantic and interesting as I imagined it would be. I was impressed with the Metro system, the high-speed train system, the general atmosphere of the city and its multitude of restaurants. I particularly was impressed by Brasserie Julien, with its fabulous art nouveau decorations. And, of course, I enjoyed the restaurant next door to our hotel where Claudia (accidentally) served up her new brand of Pepsi Cola sauce on the hugest ham shank dish that I have seen in my life.
"Avignon was a special destination. So historic. The Palace of the Popes impressed me as well as the walled city itself. And, the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Domes, the only complete Romanesque edifice in Avignon, in which two popes are interred, was a very religious experience for me. The walks around the city center and up the hill to view the Pont d'Avignon were fun, as well as memorable."
"The Avignon fair was just another Beziers fair, although I must admit that some of the furniture available was outstanding.
"Again, not too many smalls to purchase, with only four dealers having paper ephemera or memorabilia."
However, said John, "Montpellier was good to me. I finally was able to buy something. While in a booth looking at some pottery, Claudia mentioned that the bottles next to the pottery were embossed. I turned and exclaimed, 'Those aren't bottles, those are fire grenades!' When I asked the dealer, 'How much for the fire grenades?' he was startled that I knew they were grenades and stated in broken English that not one Frenchman that morning knew what they were. He quoted me a price for the pair which I thought was fair, and when I turned to tell Claudia what he quoted me, he immediately lowered the price another 50 euros, I suppose thinking that this American better take these grenades off of my hands before another Frenchman asks what they are. I purchased them and was very pleasantly surprised when Monsieur Hagenbuch identified them as Unic grenades with some good value."
John added that at Montpellier, he purchased "a set of Suchard Chocolate
stereo advertising cards 
with its original decorated tin
stereoscope, as well as a set of Vautier Cigarettes stereo advertising cards
with its original decorated tin stereoscope. I had never seen an American
set comparable to these and feel that this was an outstanding buy.
The demijohn joint: There were some bottles at the Montpellier show. How many do you think you could have gotten into your suitcase?
"The trips to Orange and Nimes were the icing on the cake! My high school yearbook photo caption states that I wanted to be an archaeologist. That is probably why I became a bottle digger and collector. So, when we visited the Theatre Antique d'Orange and the Arenes de Nimes, I was excited beyond words. I was witnessing actual and incomparable archaeological sites. To see these magnificent Roman structures was an emotional experience. When I sat in them, I felt that I was transported back to the first century. I actually got goosebumps listening to the audioguide explain how gladiators fought and died and how martyrs met their deaths for their faith and how actors played out their roles on stage.
"I liked the fact that Jim and Janice have nearly every detail planned out. They really are tour guides par excellence! The side trips are simply fantastic. And the bus is really the way to go. The bullet train trips were very much fun, also. Yes, it may be daunting to rush your luggage on board, but once you relax in those seats and break out the champagne and wine and crackers, C'est La Vie! The camaraderie with Ralph and Susie was special the entire trip, and I think that my joke of what do you get when Suzie Wong marries James Earl Ray - Mrs. Wong Ray - beat any of Ralph's."
John added that he enjoyed his fellow travelers. "Ann is a true Southern belle. So gracious and likable. Bonnie and Jim are a very nice couple, even though they always wanted to go their own way. They certainly are very dedicated antique enthusiasts. And Steve amused me with his constant hustling and dedication to the 'hunt.'
Tough rocks: On each trip, Ralph Finch looks for target balls. At the Palace of the Popes, in Avignon, Ralph found ... round rocks, but came home empty-handed, glass-wise.
"The number of restaurants, cafes, bakeries, brasseries, candy stores, etc., in France truly boggled my mind. It seemed that in every city or town we went to, every second building housed an eating establishment, affording one an opportunity to eat oneself to death! And the food was delicious (this statement coming from one of the most finicky eaters on earth). I also now know why the country's pommes frites are known the world over as French fries. They are simply the best tasting fries I have ever had."
John added: "The palace and gardens of Versailles were incredibly magnificent. Those Louis boys really knew how to live big."
For those who've never visited Versailles, here are a few figures that will give a hint at its glory: The original cost of the estate in current dollars is estimated at from 12 to 299 billion dollars; maintaining Versailles, including the care and feeding of its staff and the royal family, consumed as much as 25 percent of the government income of France!
Meryle Rinker has been to France several times, "mostly with Jim and the collector group; my husband, Rick, has always accompanied me, but this year he said he had been there, seen that and ... Rick and I both love antique food bottles, primarily peppersauce bottles, and hand-soldered tins with paper labels.
"Rick collects antique clocks and I collect
knife rests - mainly Staffordshire transferware ones, but also cut glass,
colored glass and other interesting ones."
Meryle and granddaughter Lili (Ellissya Andino) first flew into London for a day, exploring that historic city, then took the Eurostar to Paris, arriving at our Paris hotel about the same time as everyone else.
Buggy for bottles: Ann Campbell, left, and Linda
McLain look at a bottle in the shape of a bug bottle offered by a dealer
at the 800-dealer Avignon Antique and Collectors Fair. The bug represents
a cicada, a bug whose sound is held in high esteem in the Avignon area.
"This is really a great trip - both the markets and the sightseeing. Provence is beautiful this time of year.
"Since I have made several trips to Paris previously, the best part was watching my granddaughter take in the sights. We also walked along the Seine - something I'd not done before and thoroughly enjoyed.
"I always enjoy Porte de Vanves, but this time I purchased only one set of pink glass knife rests - very nice for the price!
"We did enjoy our evening in the town of Beziers - had dinner on the street, followed by an Italian ice at one of the streetside vendors.
Food fit for a king:
The ornate Le Train Bleu, with its spectacular frescos, is a popular restaurant
that was a feast for our eyes as well as our stomach. Our group sat at the
table at the right. Our hotel was just across the street. John Panek commented:
"Dinner at the Gare de Lyon station, across the street from our hotel
in Paris, was a fabulous event."
"I was in Avignon last year, but this time saw more of the city. We took the little trolley tour as well as our own walking tour along the walls and to the bridge. We thoroughly enjoyed the open restaurants, the food and the folks we met along the way - as well as those who traveled with us."
At the Avignon market, "I managed to buy one set of knife rests at the market and sparked a new interest for my granddaughter - she decided that she must have at least one of each set of knife rests I purchased!
"Montpellier was my favorite market. I saw lots I wanted, but for more money than I had to spend. I did purchase another set of knife rests as well as a statue clock for Rick, who stayed home this trip." (A week after the trip, Meryle e-mailed: "He already has the clock running beautifully and has fixed the broken case, so I guess he liked it.")
Meryle continued that at Montpellier, "Lili found a book and the dealer gave it to her as a gift - she decided that markets were not so bad after all! In addition, Jim H found a set of pottery knife rests I had missed, and three were badly chipped - he gave the damaged ones to Lili to add to her newest collection."
Regarding our scenic tours, Meryle added: "I had visited all of these sites last year, but still enjoyed the awesome age and engineering it must have taken to build them! I also loved watching Lili as she took it all in. I had not climbed to the top of the aqueduct at Pont du Gard before, but went this time with Lili - it is a beautiful view and makes it even harder to fathom how this massive structure was built 2,000 years ago."
Little Ellissya (Lili) Andino of California offer a nine-year-old's view of the trip:
"I enjoyed my trip to London and France, and I enjoyed the markets most of the time. Jim, Janice, Steve, Holly, Bonnie, Jim, Suzie and Ralph were all very nice to me. I liked when we got the knife rests. My mom will put them in the curio case for me.
"My grandma bought a lot of souvenirs for my brother and friends.
They were all very excited to 
get them. My brother
plays with his big London bus. He also wanted a knife rest, but I didn't
give him one. They are mine.
Hello dollies: Holly Springer holds a German
1890s' three-foot-tall Bisque head doll. "This was the best doll at
all the shows, and for the best price. We probably paid a third to a half
of what it is worth here in the States!"
"We went to the Mediterranean sea and walked on the beach. That was fun. I saw shrimp with eyeballs, but I didn't eat it," said Lili, but she did eat "the good chocolates and the croissants."
Although she had vacationed several times throughout France, this was the first time that Susan Finch had attended the major antiques markets.
"I just loved walking around beautiful Paris. There was so much to see, and it is such a very easy city to walk. I enjoyed the Musee d'Orsay and walking with Ralph, John and Claudia along the Seine.
"Beziers was the first French antique market I had ever attended. It was fascinating to watch how the customers arranged to have large items hauled off and shipped. I was disappointed there weren't more smalls to buy.
"The Avignon show was a larger version of Beziers, with some of the same dealers. I was looking for good Victorian jewelry, enameled pieces, and majolica. There was plenty of majolica, but not that old.
"As for the city of Avignon, it is such a historical papal town. Ralph, John, Claudia and I went through the Palace of the Popes and walked to the famous Pont D'Avignon with Tom, Meryle, and her darling granddaughter, Lili. In the center of the town there were charming cafes and entertaining artists. John and Claudia bought a lovely painting from one of the artists, who welcomed us warmly, commenting on the absence of the American tourists.
"Monpellier was just a larger Avignon market. I did find a beautiful porcelain box and a few silver ice tongs. I also bought a lovely Victorian cameo pin. I would definitely attend the markets again, but lower my expectations on finding reasonable small items I could bring back and sell for a profit!"
This was the sixth trip to Paris for Linda McLain, who collects "anything
old," especially Civil War items. She has a connection to that period,
since, "I can dig it in my yard; there once were 15 slave cabins in
my back yard, and one of the main Union encampments was across the creek.
I also collect fossils, Indian artifacts, Greek and Roman antiquities and,
of course, bottles. I like South Carolina Dispensary bottles, and anything
colorful and pretty."
Bussed, Bused: Ralph Finch, left takes advantage
of the French custom of saying goodbye to plant one on the cheek of our
jovial French bus driver, David. They plan to meet again, same time, next
year.
It was difficult to tell who was THE biggest buyer on this trip: Steve Guion or Linda. Both seemed to be seen frequently running off to the international shippers with a list of their latest treasures. Here is just part of Linda's swag:
A blue Roman and a Roman coin; seven pre-Columbian Mayan figures in terra-cotta; an Egyptian amulet, 26th Dynasty; a 300 B.C. Grecian bowl; Bronze Age beads; a 12-piece set of Baccarat crystal; 12 cordial cups; 12 oyster forks; 15 various bottles; a 46-inch-tall oak cabinet; a late 1700s armoire, 105-inches tall; a 107-inch-long cherry buffet; a grandfather clock; an early Biedermeier piece; a dressmaker's work table, with distressed paint; a lithograph of Venice; a soup tureen with lid and platter; and ..." Enough, my fingers are tired of typing.
"I bought assorted other smalls, too," Linda continued, including "World War I mortar shells, a black powder horn flask, and interesting figural bottles for my bottle tree, including a matador wine bottle from Arles/Nimes area, a sailor, etc." (In her home's hallway, Linda has a "tree" from which she displays bottles to catch the sun.)
But more than the buying, Linda said she "had a great time and really enjoyed meeting everyone."
Alabama's Ann Campbell was a newcomer to the group, but fit right in. (Since several of our group are at an age where they can't remember yesterday, one traveler, in keeping with our emersion into French history and royal names, and in an attempt to remember his co-travelers' names, dubbed Ann "Ann the Good.")
This was the second trip to France for the retired teacher of first, third and eight grade. She retired three years ago and has "enjoyed every minute of my retirement!" Ann expected to have "a great time searching for majolica," and was looking forward to, well, everything. "My brother collects WWI and II military items, so I am looking for him, too.
"I always enjoy going to the Louvre in Paris and once again, the Louvre was my favorite. I spent a good bit of time in the Egyptian wing and was fascinated. I enjoyed all the sidewalk cafes. The food in France is much better than in Italy or England."
"Loved the Paris Port de Vanves market and was disappointed I did not see every stall there. I bought a wonderful majolica duck, platter and planter. That was the most I bought in one market. I'm really a true flea-marketer at heart!
While she didn't get a thing at Beziers, she did buy "several items
at Avignon. My favorite was a 
wonderful
miniature ax with a carved wooden handle that I intend to use as a lead
knife for cutting came used in my stained glass hobby. The little ax is
curved and sharp on one end and has a small tap hammer on the other end.
Perfect for my needs while working with stained-glass projects. I bought
several gun-related items for my brother from this same dealer - it was
my favorite booth of all the antique shows we attended.
It's nice, but ...: Bonnie and Jim Higgs of
Maryland do their best to get a bargain at the Montpellier show.
"I think Jim did an outstanding job of planning and implementing the trip. It was obvious he tried to think of everything to make the cost all inclusive and truly succeeded. I can't believe he was able to include everything he did at such a reasonable price. If at all possible, I will go on the trip next year and I'm trying to get my brother and sister-in-law to go. My brother would have absolutely enjoyed everything we did.
"I can't think of anything Jim could have done any better. He gave us plenty of time to explore on our own, plus see a large variety of antique markets. I had never been to the south of France or ridden on the bullet train. Both were wonderful."
Trip organizer Jim Hagenbuch said that this was his 12th and Janice's eighth time in Paris. Among their favorite activities is to take "walks along the Seine, stopping to see what the book sellers have to offer, and have lunch along with a few glasses of wine on one of the many river boat restaurants. We also like the evening boat cruise, which we do every year."
And how did Jim do at the fairs?
At the Beziers show, Jim said he bought and shipped home "71 French canning jars, the ones with the thistles on the front. All were in perfect condition and were five euro each. I also bought a few black-glass jars."
At the Avignon fair, Jim bought and shipped home "six large grow
domes. These are large, olive-green glass domes used to cover certain produce
in the fields to speed up growth, mostly melons, I've been told. I sell
them to a woman in California, but I have no idea what she does with them.
I made a mistake at Avignon by not buying a pair of milk glass Tsar and
Tsarina figural bonbon jars for 300 euro for the pair - that's about $385,
which was pretty reasonable. I didn't think they would sell, so I'd come
back later in the day when they might be cheaper. Of course, when I came
back, they were sold.
Beach bums: After dipping into the Mediterranean, our true-grit group posed on the semi-nude beach. From left to right (sort of) are John Panek, Jim Hagenbuch, Susan Finch, Claudia Panek, Janice Hagenbuch, Lili Andino, Meryle Rinker, Linda McLain, Ann Campbell, Steve Guion and Holly Springer, and Tom McCandless. As Finch was about to snap the photo he shouted, "OK, everybody, topless!" Thank god, Jim Hagenbuch didn't take him seriously.
"Traditionally, the Montpellier show has always been my best fair, but not this year. I was able to buy a couple of sets of knife rests and a few small wooden wine kegs for my co-op show cases, but that was about it. I did buy a couple of French toy firetrucks in their original boxes. They were from the 1950s, and will also go into the co-ops."
Steve Guion and Holly Springer were looking for artwork for the new home, as well as dolls, French pottery and some blown glass.
On the group's first evening, Steve opted for the eatery in the train station, across the street from our hotel. But this was no ordinary establishment, as nine of us went for a meal not likely duplicated anywhere else in the world. Le Train Bleu, built in 1900, is now a beautiful restaurant which embodies the Second Empire style. We stepped through the revolving door into the sumptuous surroundings which quite simply took our breath away. Diners come here for the delectable decor - a masterpiece of gilt, beading, rich purple, sculptures, dark wood paneling, stuccowork and crystal chandeliers. The attention that has been paid to detail is astounding and it is not surprising that the two dining rooms and lounges of the restaurant were all classed as historic monuments in 1972.
(John Panek commented: "Dinner at the Gare de Lyon station, across the street from our hotel in Paris, was a fabulous event. The paintings, the sculptures, the setting, the stained glass windows, the service, the food and the company of all who attended combined to make our dinner a truly memorable one.")
Where were you eating that evening? We had room for you to join us.
Steve continued: "We loved the double-decker tour bus, as we got to see ALL of Paris and didn't have to walk at all! Our favorite was the boat ride at night with the Eiffel Tower in lights, especially, the thousands of blinking lights each hour! In fact, we bought three Eiffel Tower blinking light souvenirs!
"The art museums were great, especially the Louvre and the Musee D'Orsay. I loved the Mona Lisa by DaVinci, as her smile reminded me of Holly's enticing smile!
"We missed the Champs Elysees and the walk to the Arc de Triomphe, as we ran out of time. That gives us something to see next time!
"Our most favorite place was the Montmarte, on the hill overlooking Paris with all the 'struggling artists.' We went there twice and bought a dozen original art works! We recommend this to everyone!"
Steve said they loved Paris' Port de Vanves market. "We got an excellent yellow-ware plaque, some French beers with the original wire bails and porcelain stopper. We also got a great Limoges wall plaque with the original frame. We passed on an excellent 1939 original French Foreign Legion Whiskey advertising framed print that was too much to ship. The print has a damsel in distress! What a deal!
"The neat part was all the 'house cleaners' who had entire households of sterling silver and numerous antiques from the mansions they clean out each week. That's where the deals were!"
Steve added that at the Beziers show, "we got a German 1890s' three-foot-tall Bisque head with composition body with original clothes, hat, socks, hair, etc. This was the best doll at all the shows, and for the best price. We probably paid a third to a half of what it is worth here in the States!
"Beziers was hot - in the 80s - but was worth the walking. We covered the market a full two times in three hours."
Steve and Holly said they loved being in Avignon: "Inside the walled town," explained Steve, "we met the friendliest people, had the best food, and the best shopping in the clothing stores. Holly scored with a nice leather jacket (a fourth of what it would cost in the U.S.) and several 'designer fashions.' Holly was 'JE SUIS COOL,' or so her T-shirt from one of the trendy shops said!
The Avignon antiques fair, said Steve, "was TOO much. Too hot, too many dealers, and not enough cash or shipping funds available for the international shippers. We'll need to share a container with other antique buyers in the future to allot more purchases. We got a lot of early blown jars and blown glass."
And when they weren't buying, they were sight-seeing. "The Pont de Gard aqueduct was one of, if not the most impressive piece of early architecture. I can't image how they built it!"
Steve and Holly also enjoyed "the excellent historical commentary from the tour voice boxes at the coliseum and the Roman theater.
"We loved the free time in Paris to see what we wanted to see on our own time. The Metro is an easy way to travel around the city in the shortest point of time. Jim did the best job in organizing and coordinating the bus, the antique marts and hotels, and still allowed us free time each evening to explore new sites in the various towns in France. The Bullet Train was tres cool! Fast, furious and a quick trip through the wine country and flower fields of southern France."
Steve had only a minor problem: "Not speaking the language was a hindrance, but other than that, we can't complain! And no one could beat the price of this trip!"
And the company: "We had a very friendly bunch of travelers, especially, little' Lili."
Oh, yes. Steve thought of another complaint: "The cost of a Coca-Cola vs. wine was absurd. $4 for a Coke and $1 or $2 for wine! Guess we better drink the wine next time!"
Bonnie and Jim Higgs "love to travel and were in France several years ago in Normandy, but not to Paris," said Bonnie. "I design jewelry and sell antique jewelry and Jim loves primitives. We were looking forward to our trip and a new market in France. We normally go to London every year, but didn't go this year because of the price of the British pound.
After their return to the States, Bonnie and Jim reported that, "We had a wonderful trip to France, on a business, educational and personal level. The weather was fabulous. Our fellow travelers were very easy to be with and almost felt like family - you could be with them when you chose or leave when you wanted."
Bonnie added, "Jim Hagenbuch did a great job organizing and planning all the minute details of the trip, even helping with our luggage when needed. Ralph was also always there to make sure things went smoothly, sort of like the Lone Ranger and Tonto.
"In Paris, we took the On Off Bus, which was great and dropped us off at all the big sights. We walked up the Eiffel tower and the views were spectacular and so romantic.
"Jim loved the Roman architecture of the coliseum, the aqueducts and amphitheater. We loved Avignon, the city, the Palace of the Popes, the shopping and the mussels - I am musseled out after eating them for three nights in a row in Avignon. And the wine was cheaper than the bottled water. We loved the breakfasts, including the delicious warm croissants and other French pastries.
"We probably needed more time at the Paris street market, but Jim found an American Stanley plane there and already turned it over for a profit. We would love to go to the big one outside of Paris on the next trip, but as usual we found great things wherever we went." (Bonnie, your wish is Jim Hagenbuch's command.)
Bonnie reported that she "found a beautiful old Limoges box, which I just sold for a very good profit" at her antiques shop in New Market, Maryland.
"The French shows were very good. Maybe too much furniture for our taste because we buy smalls, but we were still able to buy well.
"I bought a silver bracelet with a glass intaglio that turned out to be an old Roman glass piece, which I was told could be worth $500 - not bad for a $30 euro price. At the last show, at the last minute before the bus left, I also bought French fashion glass hat pins, which are spectacular.
"All in all, it was a great trip and we are looking forward to going again next year. Also, Lili was adorable and helped as our translator."
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Lili's grandmother, Meryle Rinker, summed up the trip by saying: "The collectors who go on these trips are wonderful companions and truly the best part of the trip. Since I have done so many trips with Jim and his group, I usually know many of our fellow travelers and look forward to seeing them each year. This time, there were more whom I did not know, but I must admit that by the time we left Paris, I felt they were all good friends.
"Lili also made good friends, and our last evening in Paris - at the Hard Rock Cafe - was bittersweet, as she had to say goodbye to Holly and Steve."
So what's it like to be a first-time traveler with the AB&GC group? Ann Campbell replied: "When I meet people who enjoy the same things I do, I feel like I've known them all my life. Conversation is easy and interesting. Laughter is spontaneous and often. That is the way I felt about my fellow travelers. They were instant friends! I hope to see all of you again the same time next year!"
"Jim and Janice did an outstanding job in balancing the antique markets with the historical tours," said Susan Finch, "and they did a beautiful job coordinating this trip. I also thought it was very reasonable, money wise."
Susan did have one suggestion: "On the last night in Paris, all of us should get together for dinner and recap our trip and say our good-byes. I felt like we all left Paris without a final au revoir."
John Panek raved on: "Our afternoon walk along the River Seine. The Eiffel Tower at night. The beautiful French countryside. The night cruise on the River Seine. Notre-Dame de Paris Cathedral.
"Wonderful memories," John concluded: "Lifetime memories. New friends. Closer friends. Emotions. Laughter. Joy. Love of life. I love Paris!"
So this year was great; could next year get even better?
"The Port de Vanves market seems to be falling off," said Jim Hagenbuch. "I think on next year's trip the group will go to the more upscale, 2,000-dealer Port de Clignancourt market," which should please Bonnie Higgs, especially.
And Jim has an even bigger change in mind: "This was the third year and we have stayed in the same cities. Next year, I think I will base the southern France part of the trip in the historic city of Arles, an ancient town established by the Greeks as early as the 6th century BC. I understand it is very picturesque. Van Gogh must have thought so, because he painted some of his most important paintings in that city."
Watch for an announcement in this magazine. See you in France?
Photos by Jim Hagenbuch, Ralph Finch, Meryle Rinker and Steve Guion